Climbing in the Fanns

Climbing by Classical Routes Some Five-thousanders of the Fanns

All Inclusive tour


Scheme of the Fans. You can see some pictures in our Gallery.
















Departure from home to Tashkent







Tashkent arrival (according to international flights schedule).

Meeting with local guide and transfer to Samarkand at night appr 5 hours. Not hot, nice rest (short tea break in the national tea house - "choikhona" during travel),

accommodation in Samarkand in the B&B, DBL, BB.

Time for independent exploration of this nice fairy-tales city.

Optional excursions round city Samarkand.









After early breakfast start to drive from Samarkand to the mountain International Mountaineer Tourist Center “Vertical-Alaudin” (210 km, 8-12 hs). Do not forget to take bottles with water, as the road and weather are very hot during summer time.

Crossing the border Uzbek-Tajik, border formalities, changing the transport on Tajik side.

Optional excursions in ancient capital of Sogdiana state Pendjikent (excavations of ancient town 1500 years old, local museum with local guide), optional visit local East bazaar.

Optional lunch and rest in local administrative center in the mountains town Aini.

Last 30 km is the real mountain road, going along the river Pasrud and narrow canyons and green basins.

Arrival in IMTC "Vertical-Alaudin", meeting and greeting and welcome dinner at the Center in our mountain restaurant.

Accommodation is in the cottages (2-4 persons room).






FB in our mountain restaurant,

Free day with walking around the Alaudinsky lakes.

Preparation for the acclimatization trek to Koolikalon Lakes

Overnight is in the cottages.









After breakfast at the Center start (appr at 08.00) trek to the Koolikalon lakes via Laudan pass (3600 m) (4-5 hs, 10 km by path, by which the ancient local population was connected with outer world)

A magnificent view of the 1,5 kilometer Koolikalon wall is opened from the pass.

Light lunch during trek.

Fixing the camp on the bank of one of the lakes.

A stroll around the Koolikalon lakes. Those who wish can go by the low Zierat pass (3320 meters) to the lakes Zierat and Chukurak, or ascent of the Fluorite pass (2900 m); a visit to the mine in which fluorite was extracted, climbing Mt. Fluorite (3200m) from which a fine view of the entire Koolikalon wall and the Koolikalon basin opens up, and visiting the lakes Dushakha in the upper part of the Koolikalon basin under the Koolikalon wall.

Dinner at the camp

Overnight is in the tents at the bank of one of the lakes.








After breakfast at the camp continue the walks and rest at the Kulicalon lakes.

Light lunch at the camp.

At appr 13.00-14.00 return to the IMTC "Vertical-Alaudin"  via the Alaudin pass (3830 m) (5-6 hs, 10 km).

Dinner at the Center.

Overnight is in the cottages.

Preparation to the climbing part.







After breakfast at the IMTC and packing the equipment start (appr at 12.00-13.00) simple trek to the Mutny lakes (3500m) along the Chapdara river valley (10 km, 3,5-4 hs).

Light lunch during trek.

Fixing the camp, walking around,

Dinner at the camp.

Overnight is in the tents.








After very early breakfast at the camp start (appr at 06.00) climbing the peak Zamok ("Castle", 5070m) by classical route, appr 10 hours.

Simple climbing (25-30 degree max, 650m) by conglomerate slope, simple glacier with crampons and ropes (max 30 degree, one-two fixed ropes, 500m), flat "football field" to the top. The same route for descent. 

Light lunch during climbing.

Return to the camp at appr 17-19.00

Dinner in the camp.

Overnight is in the tents.





Day of the rest at the camp at Mutny lakes

FB at the camp

(Optional - return to ITMC "Vertical-Aladuin" and rest in the cottages with FB)



Two options for some next days - Option "Energy" and Option "Chimtarga"

















Option "Energy"

After very early breakfast at the camp on Mutny Lakes, appr at 05.00 start climbing the peak Energia (5300m) by classical route.

Simple but long trekking to the pass Chimtarga (4600m) by glacier (10-15 degree, without crampons) and by small broken stones by path to the pass. Appr 3-3,5 hour. Climb Energia by ridge – 25-30 degree by broken stones+rocks, then 300-350m by ice (not more than 30 degree, but hard ice, 5-6- fixed ropes), rocky slope to the top.

Light lunch-box during climbing

The same route for descent. And rest at the camp on Mutny lakes.

Dinner at the camp

Overnight in the tents.




Option "Chimtarga"

After very early breakfast at the camp on Mutny Lakes, appt at 05.00 start climbing the highest peak of the region beautiful Chimtarga (5484m) by classical route.

Steep slope along the glacier with middle broken stones (appr 25-30 degree, 600m), flat glacier to the pass Avlodon (4600m), short steep slope on the pass by small broken stones and then along the narrow ridge to the peak Miraly (5050m). This ridge is the edge of Big Koolikalon Wall (appr 5000m). Under right foot – 1,5 km of the wall over beautiful basin of Koolikalon lakes. Overnight on the pass Mirali (5000m, big flat place for 5-6 tents).

Light lunch-boxes during climbing

Fixing the tents on the pass Mirali

Dinner in the camp

Overnight in the tents















Option "Energy"

After not early breakfast at the camp, descent to IMTC "Vertical-Alaudin", accommodation in the cottages and rest with walks

Lunch and dinner in IMTC

This day can be as reserve day for the weather for the option "Energia"




Option "Chimtarga

After early breakfast at the camp, at appr 05.00-06.00 start climbing the top of the Chimtarga peak 5487m.

Depending on snow-ice conditions it can take 6-7-8 hours from the pass Mirali and back.

Snow slope, 20-25 degree.

Light lunch box during climbing

Return to the camp at on the pass Mirali

Dinner at the camp

Overnight in the tents.
















Option "Energy"

After breakfast in IMTC walk via pass Talbas to the valley of the river Bodhona.

Great view of the North walls of Bodkhona and Chapdara mounts.

As another option  - walk to the glacier Bodkhona, between South wall of Bodkhona and North wall of Zamok.

Or other options of walk for exploration of this nice mountain region.

Light lunch boxes during trek

Dinner in IMTC- Celebration of successful ascents

Overnight in the cottages




Option "Chimtarga"

After not so early breakfast at the camp on Mirali pass, descent to Mutny lakes and then to IMTC "Vertical-Alaudin"

Light lunch boxes during descending

Dinner in IMTC - Celebration of successful ascents

Overnight in the cottages






For Both options - reserve day for bad weather.


Farewell dinner at IMTC "Vertical-Alaudin"

Overnight in the cottages






After breakfast, say "Good bye" our IMTC "Vertical-Alaudin" and drive to the famous high mountain lake Iskanderkool (named after Alexander the Great). Lunch on the bank of the lake. Visit nice waterfall.

Then say "Good bye" to the Fann mountains and drive to the mountain village Urmitan, the capital of a former feudal domain Falgar, on the bank of Zeravshan river, visiting the local houses, blacksmith, potter, ancient mosque (XI cent.).

Dinner in the native house in national tradition on the floor.

Accommodation is in native house on the floor or in the garden on the ground



After breakfast drive to Samarkand. Crossing the border, border-customs formalities, Changing the transport. Arrival in Samarkand.  Accommodation in the B&B, DBL, BB. Rest and walks.



After breakfast in the hotel or B&B the excursion about Samarkand with transport and local guide. Visit famous and majestic places of this fairy-tales city – Registan Square with three madrassahs, Mausoleum of Tamerlan Gur-Emir, Complex Shah-i-Zindah, Mosque Bibi-Hanum, sand town Afrosiab. Optional folklore concert in the evening. Rest, farewell dinner with new friends. Evening/night transfer for Tashkent airport



Tashkent departure according to international flights schedule


Package price of the tour "Climbing in the Fanns-06" (All inclusive variant)


Group of










Package in EUR p/p











Package price includes:

1. All necessary transportation with assistant

2. Accommodation in B&B in Samarkand (DBL rooms), in the cottages at IMTC "Vertical-Alaudin"

3. Meals as noted in the program (full board in the mountains, breakfast in the city)

4. Climbing guide service

5. Necessary number of staff for trek and climbing part.

6. Rent of tents, cook equipment


Package price does not include:

1. Official local fees:

- Fee for travel in the Fann mountains (below 6000m) - 50 usd per pax

- Ecological fee for travel in the Fann mountains - 1 usd per pax per day

- Registration fee (registration of national passport in the police) - 24 usd per pax for whole stay

2. Visa support for obtaining Uzbek (DOUBLE entry) and Tajik visas - 20 usd per each visa support per pax


Present program could be extended by excursion tour in the nice fairy uzbekian cities Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva.





Prices are upon request 









From our ITMC "Vertical-Alauding" we go along the valley of the river Chapdara to the upper part, where Mutny lakes are situated.

 We pass nice Big Alaudin lake, some small lakes, Piala lake. At the first time it takes appr 4 hours. But after some days of acclimatization you can run this path for 2-2,5 hours. We use some donkeys and "donkey-drivers" to carry our luggage, equipment, big tents for base camp, kitchen equip and food.

After arrival we make some walks in surroundance.

From Mutny Lakes we can see all magestic fivethousanders around: Chimtarga, Zamok, Energia, Chapdara, Bodkhona.

Mutni (in English something like "turbid") lakes are at altitude appr 3490m)


Climbing Chimtarga, 5487m by the classical route.

From Mutni Lakes we start climbing slope with brocken stones, appr 10-15-20 degree to the direction of the pass Avlodon (4600m). Path goes along the glacier, falling down from the slopes of Chimtarga, along the moraine. It is easy technically, only by foot with ski-poles, but hard physically due to altitude. It takes appr 3-4 hours with stops.

There are some places for the camp under Avlodon pass (100-150m below), but it is better to have a short rest with light lunch and continue climbing to the pass Avlodon (broken stones, 30 degree). From this side pass Avlodon is very simple, but when you rich it you can see under feet part of great Koolicalon Wall and then we should turn to West and start climbing along the Ridge of Koolicalon Wall.

Frist - wide snow slope, 20-25 degree (we always can see it, as triangle, from ITMC "Vertical-Alaudin"

Look at the picture

Then along the very ridge, almost horisonal by narrow path. This part is very exiting, as under right foot - 1,5km Koolicalon Wall and you can see nice Koolikalon basin and lakes.

This part is appr 500-600m at alt 5000m upto the peak Mirali, which is only 5050m high.

We do not climb the peak Miraly, but traverse it by snow slope. It is appr 30 degree, but it is recommended to rope the group and go simultaneously. Last part to the pass Mirali is a bit steeper and usually we fix the rope to help climbers overcome this part safely.

Look at this part here:

From Avlodon Pass it takes appr 3, max 4 hours. So it worth to do this part - from Mutny lakes to Mirali pass, to have enought time for climbing the top next day.

From this place we can see the next part of the route, including the top of nice Chimtarga

(lady decided to "climb" Mirali peak and that's picture from Mirali peak in direction of Chimtarga)

Mirali pass has place for 5-6 tents, a bit snow. So in case of good weather (that's almost guaranteed in the Fans) you can spend here good and safe night.

On above picture you can see the rock belt. It is very easy rocks, not steeper, than 30 degree and 40-50m in the narrowest place, but we consider this place as a second place, where fixed rope might be necessary and useful.

We must go along snow slopes roped by two-three alpinists.

Not more than 3 hours - and we on the top!





Some steps to the top of nice Chimtarga!

Descent is by the same way. And it is possible to spend one more night at the pass Mirali, but of course - all alpinists hurry to descent to Mutni lakes to have a good rest.

You can see these nice Mutni lakes from the top

But of course, you should keep in mind - do not hurry on descent! be attentive and careful! Our guide helps you in this matter.

Look at this picture to see whole route to the top of Chimtarga



 Climbing Zamok, 5070m by the classical route.

Start from Mutni lakes by moraine to the glacier, then along the glacier to the Col between Poihamber and Zamok (roped, one place 40-80 m of fixed rope before the col, bergshrund, then by foot run to the top by wide football field. the same back. One day is enough.






Climbing Energia, 5300m by the classical route.

Start from Mutni lakes by moraine to the glacier under the pass Kaznok, then along the glacier to the Col Chimtarga 4600m. It is possible to fix the tents on the pass to start climbing moring next day.

Then along the ridge, broken stones, then 200-300m by ice - fixed ropes, appr 30 degree, just for safety and then to the top.

Some photos here: